The Thanisch estate was founded in 1648. The current incumbent is Jörg Thanish, ably assisted by his wife, Petra, with daughter, Sophie, destined to become the next generation of this Middle-Mosel dynasty.
Their 8 hectares of vineyard holdings are based in and around Lieser, a village now enjoying a growing reputation due, some say, to it being the home to the von Schorlemer estate, which made some great wines between the late 1940s and the 1960s. The massive grey slate mansion where they once lived remains Leiser’s most imposing landmark. This is now a five-star hotel, with the vineyards now managed by Thomas Haag (son of Wilhelm at Fritz Haag estate).
Whilst Jörg dabbles with some non-traditional varieties and offers some Sekt, it is the classic Rieslings that offer the greatest interest. Business is brisk enough, that the estate only commercialises wines from the current, or previous vintage, either to be enjoyed in their youth, but equally capable of evolving over many years, if the customer is prepared to finance their ageing.
THE WINES:
The range begins with the ‘1648’ Trocken, a cuvée introduced by Jörg when he took control of the cellar in 2001. Invariably, the wine comes from the lower slopes alongside the river, from Riesling picked within the first days of harvest. Raised in stainless steel tanks and bottled in the spring following the harvest. Typically, the wine carries around 6g/l residual sugar.
‘Schieferreich’ Kabinett Trocken
This best translates as lots of slate stone. Like the ‘1648’ above, it is also picked early and raised in tank but shows more weight and concentration, and is slightly drier, typically with around 4g/l residual sugar.
The 2024 is the last vintage which will carry both the terms Kabinett and Trocken on the label. From 2025, the German wine laws will change, obliging dry wines to discontinue the use of the word trocken, with the term reserved exclusively for the sweeter Prädikat wines in an attempt to simplify the otherwise complex label terminology.
Lieserer Niederberg-Helden Trocken
From the village’s most renowned vineyard. The south-facing Niederberg-Helden is made up of grey-blue slate and produces heavier wines that mostly require more time in bottle, allowing them to show their true potential. This wine (until the 2023 vintage labelled as Trocken Spätlese) is sourced from the best grapes within the cellars’ eleven parcels and invariably picked during the last week of harvest. This enjoys a spontaneous ferment, using only indigenous yeast. Typically, this cuvée carries around 9g/l residual sugar.
Lieserer Niederberg-Helden Kabinett
This a typical Feinherbe style with around 10.5% ABV and between 18 and 20g/l residual sugar.
Bernkastel-Kues Weisenstein Kabinett
Purchased in 1998, the Weisenstein vineyard is located between Kues and Leiser, separated only from the river by the main road. This is a typical Kabinett, with around 8/5% ABV and 44g/l residual sugar.
Juffer Sonnenuhr Kabinett Gold Capsule 2005
Located between the villages of Leiser and Kesten, this small (10.5 hectare) south-southeast facing Einzellege of weathered grey slate, is surrounded by the larger Brauneberger Juffer. Together, they cover the entire face of one of the Mosel’s most dramatic slopes. Until well into the 20th Century, their wines enjoyed the best reputation in the region and commanded the highest prices. This mature parcel of Kabinett is a one-off purchase by Jörg from a deceased estate. 7.5% ABV.
Brauneberg Juffer Spätlese
One of the best known Einzellagen on the Mosel, capable of producing some of the most complex Rieslings. The 2024 vintage was 70% affected by noble rot. The ABV is 7.5% with 71g/l of residual sugar.
Lieserer Niederberg-Helden Spätlese 2023
From the challenging 2023 year in the vineyard, however the wines have linear acidity and good fruit purity. This has 8% ABV and 80g/l of residual sugar.
Bernkastel-Kues Kardinalsberg Auslese*** Gold Capsule
Thanish purchased half a hectare from this steep south-facing vineyard on the Kues side of the river in 2022. The 2024 vintage was harvested on the 25th of October and yielded just 300 litres of fully botrytised juice. As Jörg states: ‘The best quality grapes arrive at the end of harvest, but one has to be prepared to take risks…’. The ABV is 7.5%, with a residual sugar of 110g/l. Bottled in 375ml.
Spätburgunder ‘Unfiltered Barrique’ Trocken
Global warming is proving that the Mosel can now ripen and produce Burgundian style Pinot Noir. Jörg is rightly proud of his barrel-aged Spätburgunder.
Website : www.thanisch.de
| Thanisch 1648 Riesling | pack shot | |
| Thanisch Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Spätlese | pack shot | |
| Thanisch Niederberg Helden Riesling – Schieferreich | pack shot | |
| Thanisch Niederberg Helden Riesling Alte Reben – Reserve | pack shot | |
| Thanisch Niederberg Helden Riesling GG | pack shot | |
| Thanisch Niederberg Helden Riesling Kabinett Feinherb | pack shot | |
| Thanisch Niederberg Helden Riesling Spätlese Feinherb | pack shot | |
| Thanisch Spätburgunder Unfiltriert | pack shot | |
| Thanisch Weisenstein Riesling Kabinett | pack shot |